Ann Yvonne Woods

There are rare people whose sheer force-of-nature personality define an era; whose influence and aura remain fresh and present. Yvonne Woods was that and more. She made her restaurant in downtown San Antonio a salon where she served mouthwatering food and unforgettable conversation.

Ann Yvonne Woods was born June 10, 1945, in Newcastle upon Tyne, England, the daughter of Douglas and Peggy Wood. The family, which eventually included two younger sisters, Marilyn and Shelly, moved to Vancouver, B.C., Canada. After spending her teen years in Montreal, she followed her heart to San Antonio in the mid-1960s, where she found her home as well as new loves.

Arthur “Hap” Veltman, the innovative downtown entrepreneur hired Yvonne to manage his River Walk restaurant, The Greenhouse. In 1976, she opened The Calico Cat Tea Room, a few doors south on N. Presa Street, just above the River Walk.

The Calico Cat was Yvonne’s masterpiece. From the open kitchen, she commanded a view of the bright high-ceilinged room, always decorated with masses of fresh flowers, while opera and classical music rose above spirited free-for-all conversation. One long wall was covered with posters and originals by local artist friends, and another with huge photographs of favorite conductors and musicians like Toscanini and Horowitz.

Open only for lunch (and occasional breakfasts and Thursday dinners for friends), it quickly became a nexus of information and gossip for politicos, artists, writers, reporters and other eccentrics of all stripes. It was a vital gathering spot during a particularly vibrant period for locals on the River Walk. The Cat was the place to find out what was going on in San Antonio.

Yvonne spun her culinary magic dressed in her work uniform: denim jumper over a blouse and a multitude of Victorian petticoats, adorned by a carefully curated selection of pins and brooches and a forearmful of silver bangles, Dr. Scholl’s sandals, with her long, dark hair mostly caught up in a bun on top of her head, everything enveloped in a fog of patchouli. She supervised a smart-mouthed bevy of waiters who could sling campy barbs as fast as “Cream of Yesterday” soup.

Yvonne’s unique twist on classic dishes and her own inventions attracted the faithful who enjoyed everything from proper English teas (kept warm under handmade quilted cat-shaped cozies) to her specialties: the Calico Turtle sandwich, Babbington Burger, Pâté de Montreal, and an imaginative range of salads, quiches and the popular progressive soup. Desserts included Miss Piggy Pie (a mile-high confection of flavored whipped cream), orange chess pie and the legendary staggeringly rich Pineapple Cake.

Yvonne’s hiring practices struck an early blow for LGBTQ equality decades before it was an acronym. She invented inclusion; she was only intolerant of intolerance and cruelty. When a regular customer chastised her for hiring an HIV-positive person, she told him, “Then you don’t have to eat in my restaurant.”

The Calico Cat anchored a block of downtown: North Presa from Commerce to Crockett, which featured a chic mix including the Charlton Gallery, Richard Conn Gallery, MUD gallery, Climbing Bear toys, La Sirena fine antiques, Terry Clegg’s boutique, and Chamade Jewelers - as sophisticated a shopping block as any in the city. After The Calico Cat was forced to move in 1988, all the other businesses eventually moved or closed and the block lost its vibrancy.

Yvonne later re-opened the restaurant a few blocks farther south to Las Villita until she became Head Chef/Manager for Menger and Associates, a popular catering firm, in 1990. She continued to serve remarkable food with her unique style and grace at thousands of events until last week.

Yvonne’s greatest passion was animals. She was a powerful advocate for animal rescue, a one-woman rescue squad. Over the years, Yvonne’s home in the River Road neighborhood became a refuge for unwanted cats and dogs. Some showed up on her doorstep, some were found abandoned on the highway, and some were liberated from unthinkable torture. However they started out, Yvonne’s “babies” spent the remainder of their days embraced in the lap of luxury with her or in loving homes among her many friends.

At work in the tea room, Yvonne presented an eccentric picture. However, in the evening at dinner or a classical concert, she was an incredibly glamorous beauty, with a style wholly her own.

Yvonne loved music and occasionally had classical ensembles play in the restaurant. She adored live performance, but she was a major threat to anyone impolite enough to disturb the show by rattling a program or noisily unwrapping candy. Strong men fled concert halls in the face of her withering gaze.

Yvonne was an expert raconteur. She could spin a minor event into a hilarious three-act epic. She could be bawdy and hysterically funny, but she knew all the rules and could easily navigate a royal visit. She was an exceptional eccentric in a city full of them.

Yvonne was entirely original. She authentically curated her own life and inspired others to do the same. Loyal, generous, enveloping - a perfect hostess. San Antonio is made brighter because of her contributions.

Ann Yvonne Woods died January 29, 2018 in San Antonio. She is survived by her sisters, Marilyn Burgoon and Anita Michelle Serbeniuk (John), all of British Columbia, Canada; nieces Alexandra Short, Demitria Burgoon, Vanessa Burgoon, Sarita Burgoon, Reanna Burgoon, and Alethea Boire; nephews Aron Burgoon and Brandon Serbeniuk; and ten great nieces and nephews; her cats, dogs, and turtles; and countless devoted friends.

A Memorial Service will be held at 10 a.m., Friday, February 9, 2018, at St. Mark’s Episcopal Church, 315 E. Pecan Street. A celebratory reception will follow at 11:30 a.m. at the Bonham Exchange, 411 Bonham, for Yvonne’s friends over 18 years old.

In lieu of flowers, memorial donations may be made to San Antonio Pets Alive! http://www.sanantoniopetsalive.org/